instead of having "surfaces" of "grey", you have tiny dots of black/white, and viewed from a distance it appears grey.Īnd on glass, you will get surface with "white" dots and transparent dots, and the result will be gray. on plexiglass, if the power is too much, there will be no "frosted" effect. on glass, i think that there's a threshold, under which there is nothing or almost, and above you have a "white" dot, but there will be no grayscale. On paper/cardboard, in some way, more power equals more "brown". Here is a good and simple process that is the basic process of everything I have listed aboveĪctually, you have to remember that the laser result is not in any way "proportional" to the grayscale of the image, especially on glass! This video shows some tricks to edit and image - this is not the perfect process but shows some tools you can use
PHOTOGRAV UPGRADE FOR BOSS LASER TRIAL
Cheap glass, trial and error and patients are my only recommendations after showing you my trials and errors.
the process is not dis-similar to other materials but there is less room for errors. Glass is a difficult surface to engrave and achieve different gradients. You can achieve the same end state without it see this post viewtopic.php?f=110&t=3549&hilit=photoshopīottom line you must create a bit map - the size a spacing of pixilation determines appearance. it still requires manipulation but with trial and error I have been able to produce some fair engravings.
PHOTOGRAV UPGRADE FOR BOSS LASER SOFTWARE
I use another piece of software to aid in creating some of my engravings - It is called photograv.
Yes - JPG does not support a transparent back ground I can see where putting this on a clear background when designing is important. I will check back in after I fiddle some more and share some more pictures. I think I need to reverse the order of darkness on the bird body. And the white lines make the feathers show. Things that I would normally do as light are dark and vice versa which creates a bit of mental gymnastics for me. The challenge with this is thinking backwards when I design. He did a bunch of videos about lasering pictures onto various materials - binge-watching them will probably prove to be very useful. See Russ' videos, especially the ones about lasering an image onto slate. You probably will need to experiment with the Bitmap handler to get the settings just right. Then, when lasering, tick the "Output Direct" box on the Layer Parameter. I think you want to create your original artwork as a bitmap (save it as JPG or BMP) in whatever software you use to create it (Corel, Paint, etc.).
If I remember correctly, you do most of your lasering on glass. When you laser a piece of glass or stone, the spot hit by the laser turns white. For example, when you laser a piece of wood or paper, the spot hit by the laser turns brown or black. The color that you get when the laser hits the material is dependent on the power of the laser beam and the kind of material. But first we have to understand that we're talking about a laser and not a printer. The short answer is yes, the laser can do shades of gray. Is this correct? The only other thing I can think of doing is to do thin lines where I want it to seem gray so that they are separated and appear shaded to t he eye. Is it possible to shade with my 50W laser? My guess is this is a different below surface process.Īttempt # 3 at my redesign involved making sections of my design gray, but the laser can't seem to read gray, only the black which it etches. Attached is a photos of a look I am trying for. Have redesigned my design several times and am going from bad to worse.
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